Risi e Bisi

Were it not for the fact that I tend to write with ears alert for alliterate and onomatopoetic sounds, this article could have been titled Biscuits with Honey, rather than Risi e Bisi (Rice and Peas). I've been thinking about fabulous food duos, the sort of food combinations that fit together so perfectly that the pairings have become traditional. I've been working on an ever-expanding list. There are so many: bacon and eggs; rice and beans; rice and soy sauce; mashed potatoes and gravy; bagels and cream cheese; apple pie and cheddar cheese; vinegar and oil; baked potatoes with butter; pancakes topped with maple syrup; pumpkin pie with whipped cream; peanut butter and jelly; wine and cheese; vodka and tomato juice; coffee and cream; strawberries and rhubarb; peaches and cream; sauerkraut and pork sausage; spaghetti and tomato sauce; olives and feta cheese…. The list might be endless.

Food partners have been wed in culinary tradition for good reason. In combination they are enhanced, better than either one is alone. You may have noticed, even just perusing my short list, how often the pairing embraces a contrast in taste and/or texture. Strawberries are sweet while rhubarb is tangy and tart. Rice is sweet, starchy, and smooth while soy sauce is salty with its fermented, sharp bite. Often milk fats are paired with a sweet starchy staple or with a sweet fruit flavor, as in pumpkin pie topped with whipped cream. A sharp note enhances a soothing smooth one, as with Tabasco sauce on eggs. At the root of the relationship between these familiar food counterparts, contrast is to be a key element. In color theory there is a comparable phenomena called "simultaneous contrast of hues." When two complementary hues (from opposite sides of the color wheel) are placed side-by-side, the vibrancy of each individual hue is increased.

The combinations that have managed to carve their union into dietary tradition work well, in large part, because their individual flavors do not lose their integrity. They do not meld together so seamlessly that they lose their own distinct characters. They work because they complement by their very contrast, simultaneously, like cookies and milk, crackers and cheese, guacamole and corn chips, prosciutto and melon, soup and croutons, curry and chutney, Parmesan and pasta…. In Italy there is even a saying to indicate that something is exactly as it should be: come il parmigiano sulla pasta, or, like Parmesan cheese on pasta.

Risi e Bisi

8 Tbsp. butter, divided
2 cups freshly shelled peas
3 1/2 cups good chicken stock
1 small onion, minced
2 slices prosciutto, diced (optional)
1 cup Arborio rice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 Tbsp. finely minced parsley
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, divided

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a medium-size pot. When it has just melted, add the peas. Turn the heat down as low as possible and cook the peas, covered, until just tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. If the heat is kept gentle enough, the peas should not stick or burn, but if you fear this, add a little water or extra chicken stock. Do not overcook. Set aside.

Heat the chicken stock until it starts to steam. Lower the heat and have it ready.

Melt the remaining butter in a large, heavy pot. When melted and starting to foam, add the minced onion and sauté over medium heat until translucent. Add the proscuitto (if using) and then the rice. Sauté for about 3 minutes, or until the grains take on a translucent cast. Then begin adding the hot stock, a generous splash or ladleful at a time, stirring constantly, until the stock is absorbed by the rice. Continue adding the stock until the rice is plump and not too soft, and the mixture moist but not soupy.

Taste for seasoning, adding salt as needed, and a generous grinding of pepper. Gently stir in the parsley and cooked peas, and cook for another 2 minutes. Turn into a serving dish and sprinkle with half the Parmesan, reserving the rest to be added separately at the table. Serve at once.

This risotto-style version of the traditional Italian dish is from John Thorne's Simple Cooking.

Flaky Biscuits

1 3/4 cups organic unbleached flour
1/4 cup rice flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
8 Tbsp. chilled, unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
2 Tbsp. melted butter
3/4 cup buttermilk

Adjust the oven rack to the center of the oven and preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Mix the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Add the chilled butter, cutting it into dry ingredients until the mixture resembles dry oatmeal.

Stir in buttermilk with a rubber spatula or fork until dry ingredients are just moistened. Let dough rest a minute, then transfer to a well-floured work surface.

Roll the dough into a rough 6 x 10-inch rectangle. With the long edge of the dough facing you, fold in both short ends so they meet in the center; then fold the dough in half by width, forming a four layer-thick piece. Once again, roll the dough into a 6 x 10-inch rectangle about 1/2-inch thick.

Using a lightly greased and floured cutter or knife, cut the dough into 2-inch biscuit sections. Place the biscuits a couple inches apart on an ungreased baking sheet; brush dough tops with the melted butter or milk.

Bake until biscuits are lightly browned, about 10 to 12 minutes. Serve immediately with honey. Makes 16 biscuits.

Pamela Lee ponders pleasures of the palate in Pullman.

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